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Old 01-09-2016, 09:30 PM   #61
Coryf

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also, while I was under the hood I noticed my brother used 8 awg wiring for the amps positive and negative to the battery. is this sufficient if I were to get that kicker 2000 watt amp?

ps: I watched a video regarding grounding the amp to the frame, vs running a long 1/0 cable and grounding right to the batteries negative post. grounding to the frame is the better choice! kind of interesting.

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Old 01-09-2016, 10:36 PM   #62
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grounding everything to the frame is the best option. its more conductive via the sheer surface area for the electrons to flow.
cold weather like that is bad for a battery. you get to the point to where the reaction is severely limited..
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Old 01-09-2016, 10:46 PM   #63
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yeah cold weather is nothing for us. well hit -40. its only -20 today when I tried, everyone elses vehicles started just fine so its kinda weird. maybe my battery is old and weak, or is it possible the sound system did something?

if I remember right, at a certain temp, the oil is 4x as thick. and the battery only gives out 1/4 the power. that makes it 16x harder on the starter to start the engine.
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Old 01-09-2016, 11:16 PM   #64
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if you have everything wired right it shouldn't drain the battery at all
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Old 01-10-2016, 09:54 PM   #65
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whats your opinions on 8 awg cable with a 1000 watt/500 rms amp?

whats your opinions on 8 awg cable with a 2000 watt amp?
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Old 01-10-2016, 10:17 PM   #66
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you have a cheap volt meter.. measure voltage and see how bad its dropping..
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Old 01-11-2016, 12:45 AM   #67
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ah ok, I see.

so I just check the voltage of my battery with the volt meter, sounds simple. remember that number.

then check volts of the amp and see what the difference is eh? sounds simple!

do I test the battery with the car on at idle?

do I test the battery while the bass is hitting hard?

does it even matter?

cant wait to get home and start fiddling around with some of this stuff!
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Old 01-11-2016, 12:49 AM   #68
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also, what does dyna mat do exactly? ive got a nasty rattle in my trunk and im not 100% sure how to fix/stop it. what do you guys normally do about rattles?

its the metal piece on the top of the trunk with all the square holes:



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Old 01-11-2016, 01:18 AM   #69
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Good read on dynamat: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-bKduXO0...ound-pt-4.html

As far as rattles, I've been blessed. Most of my personal car installs have been free of rattles. I use dynamat liberally in the front doors and maybe some on the rear deck, but that's about it.

I'd identify the offending plastic/metal/objects in cupholders and tape or screw them down.

I want to say again that I'm suspicious as heck about that grounding location. It may be fine, but it sends my spidey senses tingling. If a friend came to me with dimming issues on your setup, that's the first thing I'd look at sideways.

Last edited by diceen; 01-11-2016 at 01:20 AM.
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Old 01-11-2016, 02:34 AM   #70
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yeah im for sure going to change that grounding location. id like to touch the multimeter against a few things first before I make any changes and go from there. I should have some results this weekend!

nothing rattles in the cup holders. just the trunk lid is brutal.
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Old 01-11-2016, 04:27 AM   #71
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In my experience rattles from a trunk came from the 2 skins touching..Not sure if you are sold on brand name car audio but, go to the local home depot or lowes and pick up a roll of peel&seal for $17.00 to fix your rattles..It does the same job for a fraction of the cost...Its also a decent sound deadener so, if you treat then entire trunk lid it may increase the sound level of your subs into the car..More sound escapes the thin trunk lid than anywhere in the trunk..its the thinnest metal.
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Old 01-11-2016, 06:35 PM   #72
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hmm that dynamat definitely isnt cheap eh. come to think of it I dont think that would even help. the metal rattles so bad its like it needs more bolts in it. I will look into that stuff at home depot next time im in the city which I think will be this weekend to buy that kicker amp.

seems like dynamat is moreso for stopping road noise? road noise doesnt bother me. I just wanna get rid of my rattles in the back end of the car.
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Old 01-16-2016, 02:49 AM   #73
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ok, did some work on the car. not quite as much as I wanted. first of all, we dont have a damn multimeter so ill try to get one tomorrow and do some testing.

1. the big 3.... the grounds are going to be TOUGH. I did the alternator to battery positive post pretty easily. but the grounds I honestly dont think ill be able to get to. how crucial are they?

2. connecting to the battery posts. these dual connectors I bought wont be able to work, how am I supposed to attach my stock wiring with weird ends, AND a 1/0 cable or two to the battery? do I gotta cut all the ends off? thats kinda scary...





alternator upgrade:






what do you guys think of the way I attached it? be honest! I had to grind the space connector so it not as wide. and I crimped it in the vice, seemed to work pretty damn good.


the headlights still dim when the bass pounds, but I havnt changed the bad trunk ground yet. finding a seat bolt is going to be tricky, and I dont have enough 8 gauge wire. how can I get the 1/0 wire into my amp?

im also buying a new battery tomorrow, a stock 94R battery from the VW dealership.

Last edited by Coryf; 01-16-2016 at 02:52 AM.
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Old 01-16-2016, 03:17 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coryf View Post
1. the big 3.... the grounds are going to be TOUGH. I did the alternator to battery positive post pretty easily. but the grounds I honestly dont think ill be able to get to. how crucial are they?
This is amusing to me because it was the exact opposite in my situation. I did the Big 3 a week or two ago, and on a regular Honda Civic, the alternator positive is right up front. But on an Si trim Civic, you have to remove this large metal bracket with like 10 screws, some of which are hard to reach. Even then, I had to use a flex head ratchet to reach the alternator positive nut.

The negative to chassis and chassis to engine block on my car? Just lift out the battery.

Anyway, see if you can't find a really close location to the battery negative, improvise a spot. To the engine block, again, try to find a non-stock but just as effective bolt someplace.

Quote:
2. connecting to the battery posts. these dual connectors I bought wont be able to work, how am I supposed to attach my stock wiring with weird ends, AND a 1/0 cable or two to the battery? do I gotta cut all the ends off? thats kinda scary...
To use those terminal blocks you will have to cut the ring terminal off the stock wiring. On my car they don't leave much slack, so I opted to just tie it to the existing battery post. But now that I'm scrolling down your pics, it looks like you did just that, which is fine.

Quote:
what do you guys think of the way I attached it? be honest! I had to grind the space connector so it not as wide. and I crimped it in the vice, seemed to work pretty damn good.
I used tin snips to slim down the ring terminal that I attached to my alternator. Nothing wrong with trimming it down; you'd have to trim a ring terminal down to almost nothing before it would ever have an appreciable impact, resistance-wise.

Quote:
the headlights still dim when the bass pounds, but I havnt changed the bad trunk ground yet. finding a seat bolt is going to be tricky, and I dont have enough 8 gauge wire. how can I get the 1/0 wire into my amp?
I extol the benefits of seat bolts, but I've said before (maybe even in this thread), other locations usually work. I found a metal plate between my backseat and trunk area, and grounded both my amps to that. Short grounds are desirable to avoid any unnecessary added resistance, so that spot fit the bill. Multimeter testing showed that it was satisfactory.

So see if you can find a bolt nearby, sand away any paint, and give that a shot. Just don't use a self-tapper. I personally "solved" a couple acquaintances' dimming issues by remedying self-tapping screw ground jobs.

For the 1/0 into the amp, I'd get a distribution block and convert into an acceptable gauge. Someday down the line if you ever want to add a second amp, you're already in business. You can also get a wire reducer for much cheaper, so consider that also.

Thanks for the update! Good luck on your big 3 grounds!

Last edited by diceen; 01-16-2016 at 03:35 AM.
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Old 01-16-2016, 07:24 AM   #75
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don't buy those over priced rebaged batteries..
kenitik audio
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