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Old 11-20-2003, 01:54 PM   #61
russellburrows

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The place to get it at was posted in this thread,but I guess someone decided that info on where to get a water laser had to be deleted
PM me if you have to have one
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Old 11-27-2003, 09:23 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally posted by russellburrows
When working on any amplifier make sure that all power fuses and the negative power wire at the batt. are removed to prevent equipment damage.








I'd go a step further on this suggestion, especially for the newb. Whenever working on any electrical component in your system(amps, processors, head unit). ALWAYS disconnect the negative ground cable from your battery.
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Old 11-27-2003, 09:39 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally posted by russellburrows
Take a silicone cartridge place a thick bead of said silicone around sub install hole in fiberglass or MDF or concrete or glass box.
Connect wires to sub.
Place sub on hole.
Go back to house and play some CD`s.
Go back to box and place inside vehicle.
Listen to music.

No fuss.
No drilling.
No searching for a proper drill bit.
No moaning on how to fix a cracked MDF board.
No tilted sub logo.
No air leaks.
No waiting as drill batt. recharges.
No trying to remove broken drill bits from box.
No misdrilled holes.
No T-nuts.
No cone punctures.
No drilled fingers.



I must humbly disagree with this suggestion. It begs the question of how you remove the sub from the enclosure if the need ever arises. I can only imagine the damage that could occur to the basket while trying to pry a 12" sub from an enclosure with a screwdriver or such. In his least condesending voice possibleI submit to you that's why 99.9999% of all speaker manufacturers use fasteners.
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Old 11-29-2003, 08:06 AM   #64
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You do NOT use a screwdriver to remove a sub adhered with silicone!
Please use a knife!
The same instrument that is used when removing glass from a vehicle that has an even more agressive adherent substance used to secure the glass.
Thank you.
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Old 11-29-2003, 08:08 AM   #65
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When working fiberglass the best device for measuring the catalyst (hardener) is a disposable syringe.
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Old 11-29-2003, 01:23 PM   #66
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Sir I use the same silicone adhesive you describe on the water intake grate of my Yamaha WaveRunner. I for one would not want to get any knife especially if it's sharp in any way near one of my beloved subwoofers. Silicone adhesive is a Biatch to get to release anything it adheres to. I can easily see someone exerting the necessary force to break it loose slipping and punching a hole in their subwoofer. I wonder why speaker manufacturers don't use that method of attachment. I seriously doubt it would cost. Even if silicone costs more than screws, the material cost would be offset by the labor to install x amount of screws. We should just leave it at we just disagree on the use of silicone with regards to speaker mounting.

Last edited by md262626; 11-30-2003 at 07:09 AM.
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Old 11-29-2003, 10:59 PM   #67
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Never replace a blown fuse with one of a HIGHER amperage value. Use only the manufacturer's recommended amp fuse. If you're in a "pinch" you can use a LOWER amperage fuse until you can get the correct fuse.
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Old 11-29-2003, 11:10 PM   #68
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You can test speaker polarity using a AAA, AA, C, D flashlight battery in the following manner:

Using anyone of the above batteries, get a pair of test leads (wires with an alligator clip on each end) and connect the positive battery end to what you believe is the positive speaker terminal (if unmarked) and the negative wire to the negative end of the battery and the other speaker terminal. If the speaker cone moves in an outward direction you have properly identified the correct speaker polarity. If the speaker cone moves in when you perform this test the polarity is reversed. You want the speaker cone to move out on this test. This test is usually performed when the correct polarity is not marked on the speakers by the manufacturer. I always verify that the plus terminal is indeed the positive post and vice versa for the negative. I have seen an instance on a Saab where the stock speakers were improperly marked and alot of the midbass was being cancelled by this condition.
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Old 12-29-2003, 04:46 PM   #69
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url for faqs doesn't work

When I clicked on the link on the first post of this thread it would not work. Is the url broken?
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Old 12-29-2003, 06:02 PM   #70
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It sure is...

the link
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Old 01-05-2004, 01:40 PM   #71
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The easy way to do fiberglass:
Buy four quarts of resin and one little bottle of hardener and use 1/4 per quart of resin.
Remember to mix,mix ,mix and mix the resin and 1/4 hardener before using to assure even curing time of entire batch.
This gives you from 55 minutes to two hours before the resin sets,plenty of time to do the job.
Use paint thinner and an old tee shirt to get excess resin off your hands.
Use only one quart or less at a time,remember that there is plenty of time to do another mix.
Precut all of your fiber mat before starting your mix sequence.
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Old 02-18-2004, 08:40 PM   #72
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polyfill does not work!

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Old 02-20-2004, 04:21 PM   #73
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hello

hey im a noobie here and i just wanted to say hi. i just got into car audio and i recently installed two kenwood typhoons with a pheonix gold amp and homemade box in my regular cab s10, very tight fit. but ya just wanted to say wuts up
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Old 02-23-2004, 10:21 PM   #74
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Re: hello

Quote:
Originally posted by kenwoodS10
hey im a noobie here and i just wanted to say hi. i just got into car audio and i recently installed two kenwood typhoons with a pheonix gold amp and homemade box in my regular cab s10, very tight fit. but ya just wanted to say wuts up
sup
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Old 02-24-2004, 10:00 AM   #75
russellburrows

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When doing fiberglass forget using aluminium foil and just go for masking tape.
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