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Old 07-15-2017, 07:40 AM   #1
kosky

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I could need some help with bracing

Hello, it's me again, I would like to ask you some questions about bracing (my current box doesn't have it so I would like to add some) my current box isn't that stiff (19mm mdf) so I thought about gluing some wooden sticks (from solid wood) from panel to panel and like 4 from the panel with the subwoofer to the one behind it (https://m.imgur.com/a/76BYX here's a drawing so it could be more clear (I am sorry my pc broke and I had to draw it by hand)) I thought about using a 25 mm (diameter) for the long one and 20 mm for the others, should I glue them together using some kind of joint or just glue them from side to side? Is there any difference between different woods when it comes to braces? I would like to use beech but I am not sure if that would work well.. Sorry for the long post, I hope I was clear enough, otherwise just tell me thank you in advance for your help and comprehension (towards my bad English)

Last edited by kosky; 07-15-2017 at 07:42 AM.
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Old 07-15-2017, 10:59 AM   #2
Jimi77

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19mm may be stiff enough depending how big the enclosure is and the sub and how much power you have. I think beech wood will be fine for braces. If you picture is somewhat to scale, then I brace in the center from the baffle to the rear panel and for the top and bottom panels. I don't think I'd bother bracing from side to side.
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Old 07-15-2017, 11:26 AM   #3
kosky

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimi77 View Post
19mm may be stiff enough depending how big the enclosure is and the sub and how much power you have. I think beech wood will be fine for braces. If you picture is somewhat to scale, then I brace in the center from the baffle to the rear panel and for the top and bottom panels. I don't think I'd bother bracing from side to side.
The box should be 56,35 L (-4 of woofer displacement) so now it will be 52.35. After all the work I think I am gonna invert the woofer so I can gain those liters and something more so I would say 57L circa. It is a sundown sa 12 powered at 600 I would say but I guess I could get it to work even at 800 or more (still now I should be using it at 600 if I am no wrong). Picture should be to scale (you can see even the reflex back in the box) with baffle you mean the side where the woofer is, right? So you are telling me you would just brace with the green and yellow sticks frome the photo? I also think I would double the layer where I will put the woofer.


Another thing: time ago in this forum I asked how to lower a bit the tuning frequency and you told me to lengthen the reflex, now I really have to because the air flow is pointing directly to my trunk and is too close (10 cm circa) and I was thinking about gluing a metal piece made professionally in order to curve the airflow and to tune it a bit lower but do you think glue would work with metal and wood?
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Old 07-16-2017, 02:00 AM   #4
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I'd only do the green and yellow bracing in the center of the enclosure. If you want lower tuning frequency then don't invert that woofer as increasing net airspace will raise tuning frequency. I'd probably try the enclosure out before messing with the port any. Sometimes the way a port loads off a "wall" can lower tuning frequency, so try it first and then go from there.
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Old 07-16-2017, 09:57 AM   #5
kosky

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimi77 View Post
I'd only do the green and yellow bracing in the center of the enclosure. If you want lower tuning frequency then don't invert that woofer as increasing net airspace will raise tuning frequency. I'd probably try the enclosure out before messing with the port any. Sometimes the way a port loads off a "wall" can lower tuning frequency, so try it first and then go from there.
Should I add a third yellow stick (like 3 in a row) or not? Maybe it would help.. Also is clamping really necessary? I have a titebond 2 premium and I tried gluing some pieces together like I would do with the bracing and they are like stones now without clamping (I tried without clamping because since the box is already made I have no clue on how I could clamp it)

Talking about the port i mostly need to curve the flow because it is near to the trunk wall and I don't want my woofer to blow
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Old 07-16-2017, 07:01 PM   #6
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I think one in each direction is fine. If you can get a tight fit without then you can probably get by without clamps.
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Old 07-17-2017, 06:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimi77 View Post
I think one in each direction is fine. If you can get a tight fit without then you can probably get by without clamps.
Ok I will try on Wednesday, thank you a lot Jimy77 you are always kind and helpful
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Old 07-19-2017, 07:30 AM   #8
kosky

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Just another thing, since I am working on the box later, is there a way to make it more punchy? I like when the bass hits you in the chest
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Old 07-19-2017, 12:00 PM   #9
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Usually, the chest hit is around 50hz, so if you can bump those frequencies up a little....
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