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Old 01-08-2017, 04:25 PM   #16
basicxj

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Quote:
Originally Posted by brooksbyerlein View Post
Okay man im gonna go down the street and try this..will my voltage meter inside the car work for this test?
I would use a proper and accurate digital multimeter. If you don't have one, you can get a decent enough one @ Sears for around $20- small potatoes if you're thinking about dropping big coin on car audio gear.

Resting voltage of a 12V battery is 12.6V, and with the engine started should be better than 13V (not necessarily the 14.4V most amplifiers are tested at for CEA-2006 ratings- not typically achievable in many cars) to put the battery into a charging state and still be able to power all of the accessories onboard. Your OEM alternator was designed to provide for the accessories that were factory installed with a small surplus- the current capacity figure of the OEM alternator will give you an idea of what the electrical needs of the vehicle might be, not including anything you've added in the way of aftermarket amplifiers.

Voltage drops can happen even with modest systems. If voltage drops below battery resting voltage when your engine is running, things like lights dim. This drop will be larger with the system turned up, and larger still if you are using high-draw factory accessories like lighting and HVAC/defrost. If your system causes voltage to drop excessively, vehicle components can malfunction or become damaged. If voltage drops towards 10V, your vehicle can shut down and things like the ECU can malfunction or sustain damage. 500A worth of draw when you have 270A worth of current to power everything can end badly, and an amplifier pulling lots of current only to be current-starved can become damaged...Hifonics amps tend to go into protection mode and never come out under normal operating conditions and this happens even faster if you starve them of current when working them hard.
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Old 01-08-2017, 04:33 PM   #17
basicxj

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If it were me and I had those two amplifiers and wanted to use them without extensive additional electrical upgrades, I'd see if they can be "strapped" together (one acts as a master, the other a slave...if the BRX can be used that way, minimum impedance doubles in this configuration to 2 ohms). I'd choose a pair of modest woofers and set gain conservatively, avoid bass boost features and play it only at modest power levels using extreme caution while monitoring system voltage.

If I wanted a more bulletproof system without an additional alternator added to the mix, I'd run only one of the amps, with a stable load, careful gain setting and use some SPL oriented woofers in a ported box optimized for output in your chosen range of frequencies- tune it high for max SPL, tune it low for optimizing SQ. One of those amps powering a pair of 15's or 18's with the right woofers in the right enclosure will be way more than enough to cause permanent hearing damage.
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Old 01-08-2017, 04:46 PM   #18
brooksbyerlein

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Hey bro i just did it but my voltage never got under 14.2 full tilt with lights on air full blast and blinkers on.....but its wired down to 1600 so that might be why
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Old 01-08-2017, 04:47 PM   #19
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Do you thing four dc level 2 12s would be good??
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Old 01-08-2017, 04:49 PM   #20
basicxj

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Quote:
Originally Posted by brooksbyerlein View Post
Do you thing four dc level 2 12s would be good??
Not my bag, but maybe an SPL-oriented CAF member might chime in.
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Old 01-08-2017, 07:05 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brooksbyerlein View Post
Hey bro i just did it but my voltage never got under 14.2 full tilt with lights on air full blast and blinkers on.....but its wired down to 1600 so that might be why
It doesn't count if you're wired to 1600wrms. There are stock alternators that can handle that.
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Old 01-13-2017, 06:54 PM   #22
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Loving the SSA Xcon idea.
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