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Old 06-15-2010, 01:00 PM   #61
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its the difference in lag/lead in that case where the alt simply cannot respond fast enough to the transient current draw..
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Old 06-15-2010, 06:17 PM   #62
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Capacitors are used for many applications and they do exactly what they are designed to do. They may be considered junk by someone who knows nothing about car audio and just repeats stupid comments. A capacitor is an electrical storage device just like a battery is a storage device. One device releases power faster than the other and one charges faster than the other. Which one is best depends on the application needed. Let’s say you only need a small amount of extra storage in your Honda civic to keep your lights from diming why wouldn’t you use a cap its going to be a lot less expensive than an extra battery plus wire and terminals. It takes a lot less space to use a cap and it weighs a lot less. Lots of people used to swear that the world was flat and you could fall off the edge. Its just knowing what you are talking about.
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Old 11-05-2010, 04:14 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bassfreak View Post
its the difference in lag/lead in that case where the alt simply cannot respond fast enough to the transient current draw..
you arent talking about leading and lagging voltage and current are you? leading and lagging has nothing to do with DC current. That only applies to AC.
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Old 11-28-2010, 08:42 PM   #64
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So if I do the big 3 I should get a slight benefit from a cap in terms of load on my electrical system and steadiness of sound. My front stage is using the cadence ZRS 2002 http://www.woofersetc.com/p6029/ZRS2...-Amplifier.htm

And rear amp the ZRS 7500D: http://www.woofersetc.com/p8481/ZRS7...-Amplifier.htm

They have a pretty good deal going on the Stinger:http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=7922
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:20 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_jitsu View Post
So if I do the big 3 I should get a slight benefit from a cap in terms of load on my electrical system and steadiness of sound. My front stage is using the cadence ZRS 2002 http://www.woofersetc.com/p6029/ZRS2...-Amplifier.htm

And rear amp the ZRS 7500D: http://www.woofersetc.com/p8481/ZRS7...-Amplifier.htm

They have a pretty good deal going on the Stinger:http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=7922
Check the capacitor testing thread below.....
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Old 11-28-2010, 10:15 PM   #66
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There is a Power thread and an Engine noise flowchart thread below....care to give my the Cliff's notes version?

I know that capacitors are not a remedy for electrical shortcomings like an under performing alternator...are my amps, or more specifically is my subwoofer amp drawing enough power to benefit?
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Old 11-28-2010, 10:27 PM   #67
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It is my understanding that if I am over 1000 RMS then yes I need a capacitor. My rear amp puts out 1100 but my speakers only run 600 RMS (1000 max).

My front stage will run on 200 and my amp provides 2X 400. It seems then that I will be slightly below the need for a cap, but again I could easily be wrong.

It is my understanding that A cap is only good so far as the audio system
isn't trying to pull too much from the electrical system. A cap doesn't provide more power, it's designed to 'stiffen' the voltage to the amp, nothing else.

If the current isn't there, a cap won't help. The alternator must have at least 20% more amperage power than the entire vehicle and sound system combined for a cap to be of benefit which is ironically the same requirements for an amp to be efficient.
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Old 11-29-2010, 12:39 AM   #68
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Check out the 'Capacitor Testing' thread. Good info in there.....
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Old 11-29-2010, 03:08 AM   #69
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at what final ohm load is/are your subwoofer(s) wired to your amp???
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Old 11-29-2010, 04:22 AM   #70
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my take on the cap is this. like three decades ago when real car audio was in it's beginnings and ground loops were the norm and most amps were class ab and few people even knew what a high output alt was or where to get,when batt tech was only lead acid 6x9's were the norm you wanted to get rid of the whine. we would put the biggest cap you could find on the power wire and hey whine was gone. but nowadays with the advent of class d amps with a lot of built in capaitance, better batts ,better amp design caps are not needed. they can be use if you want to run a true sq system with class a or ab amp that need/want to have a real constant voltage and you like to listen to that system loud and often. in some cases a cap can help if everything else is there first alt batt wires and you really are just trying to keep your voltage from dipping.there really is no need for them in the every day setup unless you are after true sq or you are a serious bass racer looking to get that last .1 of a db to win. the other case you have a pos amp with no real capasitance built into it and then at best it is only a bandaid to mask the pos amp you have. and the other time it might help is if you are right up to the limit of the cars elec and are just getting a slight dimming on the deep bass hits but other than that the elec can keep up it would help other than that a waste of money. there was a time when they did help make up for some of the short comings of car audio but i don't see the need for them if you run good amps and power your system correctly and wired right. just what iv'e seen in the years(decades) that i have been into electronics
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Old 01-19-2011, 03:18 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bunkerbuster View Post
you arent talking about leading and lagging voltage and current are you? leading and lagging has nothing to do with DC current. That only applies to AC.

Capacitive Reactance - lead/lag of voltage/current - does exist in our cars' rectified AC + a capacitor, although with Farad size capacitors or larger, the reactance is very very low (negligible). But he's talking about something else. He's saying that the energy storage of a "car audio" capacitor isn't enough to provide any significant change to the low frequency and relative high power waveform (from bass) causing voltage drops to a standard sized car electrical system. A capacitor may help smooth out the waveform of high frequency and/or low power applications. And I agree.

The first thing someone should do, instead of adding a cap, is reduce the audio systems resistance, by checking the grounding locations and increasing wire size.
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:52 PM   #72
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Amazing post. Perfect help of knowledge, thank you sincerely.
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:36 AM   #73
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great thread. Best I have seen on the topic
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Old 11-24-2012, 05:02 PM   #74
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:57 AM   #75
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