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Old 11-03-2009, 04:04 PM   #91
basicxj

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Quote:
Originally Posted by epayne123 View Post
I currently have an AudioQue AQ2200 amp that I would like to run at 14.4v to produce 2200rms. I do not know how to run my amp at 14.4v. Please let me know how to do this, please. If I sound stupid, I have JUST signed up to this forum, thank you.
Try the "general" section of the forum.

14.4V is a test standard (research CEA 2006)- your vehicle may not produce a full 14.4V at the alternator, or voltage may even be limited through the vehicle's ECU. Trying to increase voltage from say 13.8V by a slight margin won't produce a noticeable increase your ears will be able to pick up, so don't waste the time and energy.
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Old 11-03-2009, 07:28 PM   #92
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your amp will run at whatever voltage is there and it will be 14.4 in most cases until you strat pulling more than your alt can keep up with. where the 14.4 comes from is the chemical reaction in a car battery while being charged not resting. resting means just siting there without the engine runing and no draw there are six cells each stores 2.134 volts but while being charged each cell puts out 2.4 volts if the battery is in good condition 6 times 2.4 = 14.4 put a volt meter on your car and you will see for yourself wow 14.4V is a test standard (research CEA 2006)- your vehicle may not produce a full 14.4V at the alternator where do you get these ideas
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Old 11-03-2009, 07:42 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benahn7 View Post
your amp will run at whatever voltage is there and it will be 14.4 in most cases until you strat pulling more than your alt can keep up with. where the 14.4 comes from is the chemical reaction in a car battery while being charged not resting. resting means just siting there without the engine runing and no draw there are six cells each stores 2.134 volts but while being charged each cell puts out 2.4 volts if the battery is in good condition 6 times 2.4 = 14.4 put a volt meter on your car and you will see for yourself wow 14.4V is a test standard (research CEA 2006)- your vehicle may not produce a full 14.4V at the alternator where do you get these ideas
I kid you not .

http://www.cea2006.com/howtomeasure.htm

Excerpt:

Primary Output Power should, according to CEA2006, be measured with 14.4V DC supply, a 4-ohm load and with 1% or less total harmonic distortion in the output. Other specifications included in the standard involve different impedances and supply voltages. This is where the manufacturer can indicate the conditions which make their amplifier perform optimally.

I have put a digital multimeter on my car. Using a digital multimeter, measure the actual resting voltage on a cold (not recently run) regular 12V battery. Measure the same with engine running. Measure the battery again after the engine has been shut down. Measure your amplifier's power wire at the amp's +12V terminal. If you get 14.4V at all of the above, you're a very lucky man.

If I remember right, you were installing a second alternator to better power a mixed bag of amplifiers, right?
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Old 11-04-2009, 02:41 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basicxj View Post
I kid you not .

http://www.cea2006.com/howtomeasure.htm

Excerpt:

Primary Output Power should, according to CEA2006, be measured with 14.4V DC supply, a 4-ohm load and with 1% or less total harmonic distortion in the output. Other specifications included in the standard involve different impedances and supply voltages. This is where the manufacturer can indicate the conditions which make their amplifier perform optimally.

I have put a digital multimeter on my car. Using a digital multimeter, measure the actual resting voltage on a cold (not recently run) regular 12V battery. Measure the same with engine running. Measure the battery again after the engine has been shut down. Measure your amplifier's power wire at the amp's +12V terminal. If you get 14.4V at all of the above, you're a very lucky man.

If I remember right, you were installing a second alternator to better power a mixed bag of amplifiers, right?
yes i did i even posted some pics it was an interesting project i learned a lot that i could share with other people. my local alt rebuild shop was a little lost on what to do because so few people do it. i just ordered two dc audio level 5s 18" they will be runing on two new amps that wont be built untill the end of december. the alt shop i used had an interesting theory or statement they sugested not using any wire larger than 6 guage from alt to batt they claim that they have had a few alts burn out the first diode due to too large of a power wire. i am giving that mixed bunch of amps and speakers away at xmas to some people that can use them. i will post some pics of the dc level 5s around the midle of this month they havnt even been built yet. i am going to get two more of the level fives in jan.
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Old 11-04-2009, 02:45 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basicxj View Post
I kid you not .

http://www.cea2006.com/howtomeasure.htm

Excerpt:

Primary Output Power should, according to CEA2006, be measured with 14.4V DC supply, a 4-ohm load and with 1% or less total harmonic distortion in the output. Other specifications included in the standard involve different impedances and supply voltages. This is where the manufacturer can indicate the conditions which make their amplifier perform optimally.

I have put a digital multimeter on my car. Using a digital multimeter, measure the actual resting voltage on a cold (not recently run) regular 12V battery. Measure the same with engine running. Measure the battery again after the engine has been shut down. Measure your amplifier's power wire at the amp's +12V terminal. If you get 14.4V at all of the above, you're a very lucky man.

If I remember right, you were installing a second alternator to better power a mixed bag of amplifiers, right?
your right as rain on that is what i was trying to say
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Old 10-21-2010, 06:59 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ComfortablyNumb View Post
I don't often start a thread over here in General. So I thought I would. With Spring here/just around the corner, and quite a few new installs going on. I thought I'd post some links to websites that deal with supplying power to a system.

Power & Ground cable chart
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp

Wire's
Stinger
Tsunami
Streetwires
KnuKonceptz
Darvex
Parts Express
WeldingSupply
Elemental Designs

Alternators
AlterStart
H-O Alternator
Mean-Green
MotorCityReman
Nations Starter & Alternator
Ohio Generator
Quickstart alternators
MSD Ignition
Iraggi Alternator <-Import applications, thanks to Hendrix9402 for the link.
Ace Alternator Also has import applications.

Adjustable Voltage Regulator's
Iraggi Alternator Adjustable Regulator
http://store.alternatorparts.com/ind...&Category=1706

Dual Alternator Tutorial
Dave's DC Electric

Other Assorted Electrical sites
Waytek wire
Del City
SkyCraft Parts & Surplus
Remy Battery (good prices on Deka, Optima, and others)
Electronic Goldmine
Ba-Electronics


Battery Isolator
http://www.hellroaring.com/audio.php
Quality Power <-200 amp relay for battery isolation

Gain Setting Tutorial

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/gainSetting.pdf
http://www.thesuicidaleggroll.com/gain.htm

Best Ignition wires I know of.
Magnecor

-------------------------------------------------
Battery links.

Want a battery box for a gigantic RV battery for the ultimate in engine off, runtime?
The RV battery for the above box. 1350 Cold Cranking Amps! 475 minutes of Reserve Capacity! It only weighs 162 lbs. Put that in your Neon or Civic
Some very high reserve capacity Batteries. Including the above Lifeline 8D.
AC Delco
Deka battery
Exide
Interstate battery
Kinetik Audio
Odyssey battery
Optima Batteries
Stinger
Trojan battery
Turbo Start
Cabela's...Yes Cabela's!
NorthStar

Big 3 Tutorials
http://www.sounddomain.com/ubbthread...e/1#Post312025
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID=73496&PN=1

Some Battery Terminology.
Cranking Amps. Similar to CCA; Cranking amps is a measure of the number of amperes a lead acid battery at 32 degrees F can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell. (CA ratings are more commonly used in climates where temperatures rarely drop to 0F.)

Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) The cold cranking ampere (CCA) rating refers to the number of amperes a battery can support for 30 seconds at a temperature of 0F until the battery voltage drops to 1.20 volts per cell, or 7.20 volts for a 12V battery. Thus, a 12V battery that carries a rating of 600 CCA tells us that the battery will provide 600 amperes for 30 seconds at 0F before the voltage falls to 7.20V

MCA The marine cranking ampere (MCA) rating refers to the number of amperes a battery can support for 30 seconds at a temperature of 32F until the battery voltage drops to 1.20 volts per cell, or 7.20 volts for a 12V battery. Thus, a 12V battery that carries a MCA rating of 600 CCA tells us that the battery will provide 600 amperes for 30 seconds at 32F before the voltage falls to 7.20V.

Define the difference between MCA and CCA.
The marine cranking ampere (MCA) rating of a battery is very similar to the CCA rating; the only difference is that while the CCA is measured at a temperature of 0F, the MCA is measured at 32F. All other requirements are the same the ampere draw is for 30 seconds and the end of discharge voltage in both cases is 1.20 volts per cell.

Ampere-hour rating (Ah). The ampere-hour (Ah) rating defines the capacity of a battery. A typical battery that is rated as a 100Ah battery at the 10 hour rate of discharge is capable of delivering 10A for 10 hours before the terminal voltage drops to a standard value such as 1.67 volts per cell, or 10.02 volts for a 12V battery. Similarly, a 50Ah battery would supply a 5A load for 10 hours. The BP1000 battery is rated at 42Ah, so it can furnish 4.2A for 10 hours.

Reserve Capacity (RC). The reserve capacity of a battery is defined as the number of minutes that it can support a 25 ampere load at 80F until its terminal voltage drops to 1.75 volts per cell or 10.50 volts for a 12V battery. Thus a 12V battery that has a reserve capacity rating of 100 signifies that it can be discharged at 25 amps for 100 minutes at 80F before its voltage drops to 10.5 volts.

Absorbed (or absorptive) Glass Mat (AGM)
A technique for sealed lead-acid batteries. The electrolyte is absorbed in a matrix of glass fibers, which holds the electrolyte next to the plate, and immobilizes it preventing spills. AGM batteries tend to have good power characteristics, low internal resistance, and good behavior during charging.

Amp-hour
Unit of electrical energy, one amp of current flowing for one hour. Abbreviated Ah

BCI
Battery council international. Promoters of battery standards, notably the "Group sizes" which specify the external dimensions of a battery.

Deep cycle battery. A battery designed to be discharged to below 80% Depth of Discharge. Used in marine, traction and EV applications.

Electrolyte
An electrically conductive medium, in which current flow is due to the movement of ions. In a lead-acid battery, the electrolyte is a solution of sulfuric acid. In other batteries, the electrolyte may be very different.

Flooded cell
A design for lead-acid batteries. The electrolyte is an ordinary liquid solution of acid. Flooded cells are prone to making gas while being charged. Flooded cells must be periodically checked for fluid level and water added as necessary. Flooded cells are also typically less expensive than AGM or gel type lead-acid batteries.

Gel Cell
A technique for sealed lead-acid batteries. The electrolyte solution is in a gel form, usually silica gel, instead of plain liquid.

Group size
A set of standard sizes for the external dimensions of a battery, standardized by BCI. All "group 27", etc, batteries are the same size, though they may differ in weight and capacity.

Internal resistance. Resistance to the flow of DC electric current within a cell, causing a voltage drop across the cell in closed circuit proportional to the current drain from the cell. A low internal impedance is usually required for a high rate cell.
So what should I get for a pioneer sub with an amp and front speakers? Thanks comfortably!!
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Old 10-24-2010, 04:03 AM   #97
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So what should I get for a pioneer sub with an amp and front speakers? Thanks comfortably!!
please stop
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Old 11-22-2010, 01:56 AM   #98
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Originally Posted by TodStarrr View Post
Wow! Thank you!
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Old 02-04-2012, 12:23 AM   #99
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aternator to battery and battery to frame wire upgrade??

if i was to use 0 gauge wire from alternator to battery positive and run a additional wire from my negative terminal to the alternator case, and run from negative terminal to frame in all upgraded wiring would this help my power drain and recharge????
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Old 05-19-2012, 04:55 PM   #100
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IF SOMEONE WHO KNOWS HOW TO MAKE PLANS FOR A PORTED BOX WITH THEIR EYES CLOSED AS LONG AS THEY HAD THE PARAMETERS. please go into the General catagory and find my post. I need help. The box has to be made tueday. I dont wanna use a sealed box. HELP PLEASE!
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Old 04-12-2014, 07:49 AM   #101
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nice job. carry on''...............
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Old 05-10-2016, 05:29 PM   #102
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mechman.com sells alternators as well. just thought id bring it up.
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