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Old 05-08-2006, 01:41 PM   #46
ComfortablyNumb

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ComfortablyNumb
Hahahaha...I don't know it off hand.
I do when you add a second battery that is wired in parallel with the main battery. Voltage will stay the same. But the CCA and RC of the 2 batteries combines.

2 cheap batteries say $50-60 each. Say Interstate 75DT-50's. 450 CCA and 75 minute RC each. Become 900 CCA and 150 minutes of RC. Cost compared to a Red Top is more because of the trunk mounting wiring kit. The Interstate batteries are not sealed. So a vented battery box becomes necessary.

But spend a little more on say the MTP-75. The combined specs become 1400 CCA and 200 minutes RC.
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Old 05-24-2006, 11:00 PM   #47
bassfreak

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Distroblocks and battery terminals!
with 5K systems its hard to find distroblocks and battery terminals. say for instance you have 1/0 from alt to front batery, and big 3 is 1/0. now from the alt to the rear battery you need about 2/0 then at the battery from the battery you can do dual 1/0s to each amp(like the orion 2500 treo 1500.1 etc). they need fusing on EAC wire and can be very expensive!.
i dont see many options here. what i do know is that batery terminals are expensive and don't offer alot of wiring options for larger gauge. there are a few options but they aren't copper or silver so they will have voltage loss.
if you know any place with good distros let me know.

Last edited by bassfreak; 05-24-2006 at 11:16 PM.
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Old 05-25-2006, 02:32 AM   #48
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holy crap!

http://northstarbattery.com/data_she...420%20Pack.pdf
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Old 05-25-2006, 08:38 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bassfreak
Distroblocks and battery terminals!
with 5K systems its hard to find distroblocks and battery terminals. say for instance you have 1/0 from alt to front batery, and big 3 is 1/0. now from the alt to the rear battery you need about 2/0 then at the battery from the battery you can do dual 1/0s to each amp(like the orion 2500 treo 1500.1 etc). they need fusing on EAC wire and can be very expensive!.
i dont see many options here. what i do know is that batery terminals are expensive and don't offer alot of wiring options for larger gauge. there are a few options but they aren't copper or silver so they will have voltage loss.
if you know any place with good distros let me know.
Do you mean Cable Lugs? Del city has these for up to 3/0. Use these Solder Slugs and some huge heat shrink tubing for a low resistance, water tight connection.

If you're worried about them being ugly. Whip out the dremel and some polishing stuff. See if you can make'em purdy. Personally, I think properly soldered lugs make for a better connection than any crimp terminal.
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Old 05-25-2006, 08:52 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bassfreak
Those NorthStar's are the Sh*t. Gotta love that Short Circuit Current rating. God knows what that cost's though. At 272 pounds. It's just a little on the heavy side.

I think the best Bang for the buck in Reserve Capacity, is in the Motor Home battery catagory. I understand these can be found for around $250-$350. Other battery companies make 8D size batteries as well.

Added some more links to the original post.

Last edited by ComfortablyNumb; 05-26-2006 at 06:15 PM.
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Old 06-27-2006, 03:51 AM   #51
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Been trying to find some links to companies that specialize in Alternator's for Imports. No luck so far. Anybody have any?
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Old 07-18-2006, 09:36 AM   #52
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http://stores.ebay.com/Iraggi-Altern...nd-Electronics

they have a good amount of HO alts for imports.
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Old 07-28-2006, 12:08 AM   #53
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Added a tutorial on running Dual Alternators.
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Old 09-11-2006, 12:43 PM   #54
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Last edited by ComfortablyNumb; 10-29-2006 at 10:26 AM.
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Old 01-01-2007, 06:34 PM   #55
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This is for Geolemon, peter_euro, spacemonkey, etc, mainly the people here that have brains.

I've been wondering about something.

You know most OEM alt wiring includes a wire that goes to the ignition switch. This of course would be the "Excitation" wire. My brother, an ASE master tech reminded me of something. This excitation wire also acts as a secondary sensing wire once the alt is operating. So basically the voltage regulator can sense actual voltage further away from the alternator.

If one were to extend this wire to the + terminal on an amp. Wouldn't it then be able to sense voltage at the amp? I know this wire would have to have a switch in it. Otherwise the voltage regulator would get voltage when the vehicle is off.

I wonder if this would help the voltage regulator respond faster to higher current demands from the amp?

I was thinking of this because light dimming is the Alternators slow response time. Many people that ask about a cure for light dimming, don't have system's that exceed their alternator output.
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Old 01-01-2007, 09:54 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ComfortablyNumb
This is for Geolemon, peter_euro, spacemonkey, etc, mainly the people here that have brains.

I've been wondering about something.

You know most OEM alt wiring includes a wire that goes to the ignition switch. This of course would be the "Excitation" wire. My brother, an ASE master tech reminded me of something. This excitation wire also acts as a secondary sensing wire once the alt is operating. So basically the voltage regulator can sense actual voltage further away from the alternator.

If one were to extend this wire to the + terminal on an amp. Wouldn't it then be able to sense voltage at the amp? I know this wire would have to have a switch in it. Otherwise the voltage regulator would get voltage when the vehicle is off.

I wonder if this would help the voltage regulator respond faster to higher current demands from the amp?

I was thinking of this because light dimming is the Alternators slow response time. Many people that ask about a cure for light dimming, don't have system's that exceed their alternator output.
What an absolutely fantastic thought!

I don't know what the "sense" wire of a regulator does (or I should say, I don't know how sophisticated modern regulators are - if they are computer controlled or pretty much the standard thing they've been since generators turned into alternators in the 1970's.. ). But if it behaves as you say, it would definitely [at least intuitively] make sense (no pun intended ) to trigger your "sense" wire at the most dynamic element in the electrical system.

This would make for a great experiment - if you can locate the wire either at your steering column or your alternator, and even ran a temporary length of 10 or 12 gauge wire to perform an A/B test, I think you could get some conclusive results pretty easily.
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Old 01-02-2007, 12:22 AM   #57
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i remain somewhat pessimistic about this.

it would make sense to "trigger" the senseing at the battery, as the goal is to keep the battery charged, and the battery largely controls the bus.

and the power output is already attached to the battery.
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Old 01-02-2007, 08:05 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thechris
i remain somewhat pessimistic about this.

it would make sense to "trigger" the senseing at the battery, as the goal is to keep the battery charged, and the battery largely controls the bus.

and the power output is already attached to the battery.
But a fully charged battery is 12.6 volt's. Most regulators are set from the factory to run at least 13.7 volt's. Therefore the regulator has to compare it's output voltage to voltage in the system. The voltage regulator mainly senses voltage at the "Bat" terminal, after the diodes have done their ac to dc conversion duties.

But Geo is partly correct. Some newer vehicles(my blazer included) have the regulator connected to the ECM. I believe it may be a part of the EPA mandated OBD II computer system. Bypassing the ECM may not be very healthy for a newer computerized vehicle.

If I ever again find myself owning 20+ year old GM product again. I may have a go at an A/B test of this theory.
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Old 01-02-2007, 08:11 AM   #59
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On second thought. If the fuse in your main power wire were to blow. The amp would try and draw current from the extended sensing wire. I imagine this would not be good for the voltage regulator/ignition switch.
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Old 01-02-2007, 12:56 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ComfortablyNumb
On second thought. If the fuse in your main power wire were to blow. The amp would try and draw current from the extended sensing wire. I imagine this would not be good for the voltage regulator/ignition switch.
well, the sensing wouldn't be able to supply current, so the voltage at the amp would collapse to 0V. the regulator, seeing the battery is at 0V, will do one of two things:
1.) realize that sensing is disabled because no battery has a 0V rating.
or
2.) realize that the battery is 14.4V undercharged and do everything it can to raise this. likely bad for the regulator (due to strongest forcing), the alternator (high currents all around), and battery (excessive charging current).

i'm still not sure i see what your trying to accomplish here.
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